Fall ad campaigns and reviews are rolling out and with them Prada has captured the attention of the Steampunk community. Not their ladies wear, or their shoes, but their Men’s collection which oozed class and a throwback that Steampunker’s are drooling over. Here is the original show released 5 months ago, (why did we have to wait for the ad campaign to notice this?) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YpD0tnGotE The whole show is amazing with luscious patterns, coats, and little touches like old style sunglasses that present a goggle-esque feel. Smaller accents include lapel pin guns, skull cameos, stones and Trojan Helmets. The pockets were quite burgeoning giving that feel of the functionality of the pocket which is quite high on the coat, jacket and vest. Yes lots of pockets, lots of layers. Now Prada goes a bit far having men romping around in knee-length pants with knee-length coats. I loved the vests with the matching cummerbund which appears to solve the problem of modern men wanting to wear low rise pants. The cummerbund also came with pockets! And his sleeveless vest would have looked better if she had not shown them with her two tone shirts.
The color palate and patterns were perfect. Only one coat stood out as substandard because the material (vinyl-like, perhaps the slicker look) did not hold up to the Edwardian cut. It appears that Prada revisited this coat for the ad campaign changing the color from black vinyl to a brown natural material and use the vinyl to create a beautiful collar.
Like the Edwardian period, which this collection is reminiscent of, these cuts are made to look good on the slim and stout. King Edward, for which the period was named, was a stout man and wore these styles and cuts to express the power of his figure.
I think Prada did that right.
Fashion does repeat itself, so even though the collection is very Edwardian there are other time periods that are reflected in its style. The Lapels on the suits are over blown similar to the 1920s and 1960s-70s fashion rather than 19th Century fashion. But this allows the fashion to tie into the Women’s collection, which taunted lines and prints of the 1960s-70s including dress/trouser sets, and slanted pockets and empire waists. Sorry Ladies no Steampunk in our line. We will have to resort to making our own. I know I am working on a line of modern Victorian suits that I plan on wearing.
My favorite part of this collection is the layers; the vests are double breasted with high lapels that create an asymmetrical line, and the collar is very high, including a turtleneck collar peering above the high tight collar. The appearance of an ascot also peeks out here and there. Though I did not like how she displayed her two toned shirts, I did like some of the prints including one that Dafoe wears that has guns!
I should make note of Prada’s shoe line. Among the traditional Men’s shoe you saw whimsical prints or stripes and a few wore a slip on slicker in bold colors that did not fully cover the shoe. Perhaps this is Prada’s nod to spats, which were the shoe protector of its day.
So rejoice men! There is now a reason for you to tote that Steampunk Style in the world of suits and if anyone asks you can simply reply, “Did you not see Prada this season?”